Starting Procedure

• Add at least 3 litres of fuel to ensure both sides of the fuel tank are full.
• Turn the key switch to the ON position.
• Set the fuel tap to the ON position.
• Lift the carburettor choke lever or pull out the choke button for cold starting.
• Ensure the kill switch is in the RUN position (button out for Kurz RT1 models).

Using the Kick Start:

• For 140cc and above: Find Top Dead Centre (TDC), Slowly press the kickstart lever until the engine reaches TDC, where resistance is strongest. Release the lever to its starting position.
• Firmly and smoothly kick down through the lever in one motion without releasing partway. Avoid stomping or rapid kicks as this will damage the kick-start gears.
• Repeat the process if needed, ensuring you find TDC each time for the most effective kick.
• Avoid excessive throttle during kickstarting, as it can flood the engine and encourage kickback.

Using Electric Start:

• Ensure the bike is in neutral (Green ‘N’ on display).
• Pull in the clutch lever and hold.
• Press the electric start button.

Troubleshooting failed Electric Start:

• If no sound or a clicking/clunking is made by the starter, the battery may need charging.
• if no sound and no lights etc, check the fuse, typically located next to the battery.
• A low battery can still display as 12V on the dash, so do not rely solely on the display to gauge charge level.

Fuel Quality

• Always use fresh E5 premium unleaded fuel to ensure optimal performance.
• Old or low-quality fuel can lead to poor starting and running issues.
• If old fuel is present, drain both the fuel tank and carburettor, then refill with fresh fuel.
• A blocked fuel cap or breather pipe can create a vacuum, restricting fuel flow from the tank. Ensure both are clear.
• If the breather pipe is missing, water from rain or washing can enter the tank and contaminate the fuel. Always ensure the breather pipe is securely fitted.

Valve Clearance

• Ensure valve clearances have been adjusted upon assembly using a valve clearance adjustment tool kit.
• New pit bikes often ship with zero valve clearance from the factory, causing starting and running difficulties.
• Valve clearances should be set during the initial assembly and again at the first service once the valves have been seated. This can be done by either yourself or the dealer.
• Adjust valve clearances to the correct specifications as outlined in the manufacturer’s PDI/assembly guide.

First Service Reminder

• Is the bike new? If so, has it had its first service (200 miles or 10 hours)?
• Never skip the first service—it’s critical! This includes setting the valve clearances accurately.
• Failing to carry out this task will eventually cause the bike to fail to start or even cut out while riding.
• The first service is the most important one! Refer to the service page in the owner’s manual for full details.

Further Troubleshooting

If you have completed these checks and now suspect a fault, use the electrical or mechanical troubleshooting sections below for further guidance:

• Electrical Troubleshooting: If the bike is turning over but not starting (no spark, weak spark, or issues with the battery or wiring), head to the Electrical Troubleshooting section.
• Mechanical Troubleshooting: If the bike is not turning over, there are unusual noises, or you suspect an issue with the engine, carburettor, or valve clearances, head to the Mechanical Troubleshooting section.

Identifying Electrical vs Mechanical Faults

Quick Test for Electrical System Faults

We offer a Simple Pit Bike Wiring Loom Kit (£17) on our website, ideal for testing whether your bike’s electrical system has a fault. In some cases, you may also need a loom adaptor (£6) and a new spark plug (£6) for accurate results. This kit bypasses your bike’s current electrics, helping isolate issues quickly and effectively. Here’s how to test:

1. Prepare the Test Loom:
   • Fully assemble the simple off-road wiring loom: Kick Start Wiring Loom Kit
   • Plug in only the CDI and ignition coil.
   • Use a new spark plug for accurate results: NGK Spark Plug 50cc-160cc.
2. Disconnect the Current Loom:
   • Unplug the wire from the engine, disconnecting the bike’s existing loom.
   • Plug the engine’s electrical wire into the test loom.
   • You may need a loom adaptor: Engine Loom Adaptor.
   • Insert the new spark plug into the new spark plug cap.
3. Test for Spark:
   • Kickstart the engine and check for a spark at the plug.
   • No spark: The stator coil may be faulty – consider a replacement.
   • Spark present: The stator coil is working; reconnect the spark plug to the engine.
4. Start the Engine:
   • Attempt to start the bike with the test loom connected.
   • Engine fires up: The problem lies in the original electrical system—focus on electrical troubleshooting.
   • Engine doesn’t start: Likely a mechanical issue—refer to mechanical troubleshooting.

This quick test saves time and garage fees while providing useful spare parts for future maintenance!

Quick Test for Mechanical Compression Faults

Carry out a Leak Down Test:
This test measures air escaping from the motorcycle’s combustion chamber to assess engine health. A high percentage of escaping air points to mechanical issues.

Watch a tutorial here: Leak Down Test Video

What to Listen For:

• Hissing at the carburettor: Intake valve leak—possible valve damage or requires valve adjustment
• Hissing at the exhaust: Exhaust valve leak—possible valve damage or requires valve adjustment
• Hissing at the oil filler hole or crank breather pipe: Piston ring seal issue